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I think cocktail attire is really nice and a great excuse to wear good tailoring, but perhaps in some ways a little less creative and open than black tie, just in terms of the colours, materials, different traditions and so on
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Gianni Versace has been quoted in a 1997 text by Richard Harrison Martin for the Metropolitan Museum of Art, that the dress was inspired by the punk subculture (hence the safety pins), and the Indian sari (as seen in the wrap-around design of the silhouette)
Not an open collar
